A new chapter, a new experience

And so my voyage to 'adulthood' continues with an impromptu assignment to Manila. You can follow my exploration of this unexpected destination here. I thank my Geneva pals for taking care of my plants and empty mini studio in the meantime. I promise to not spend everything in food and bring some souvenirs.

Encounter with a beauty quark (idea) at CERN

They must have been mighty inspired to call a particle a beauty quark. Not sure why a bottom quark became known as beauty quark, I browsed the English language internet and stumbled on a cute site here. The term adds to the cute and cool factor of an overall electrical engineering intensive site.

Sunday was my first encounter with such temporary matter, at the open house of the CERN, for their 60th anniversary.  I received a ticket with my name about a week before my visit, with the GPS coordinate of the underground tunnel entrance(I appreciated the geek factor). I researched the public transportation access but it was futile. So I ended up taking the train to the airport, and taking a cab from the French side of the airport to a place merely across the field.

Stripped of a full 30 euros for cab fare, I separated from my handbag, got my ticket scanned, and got in line for the tunnel 8 entrance. Fully dressed in white and a maxi skirt, I added a bit of lacy frivolity to a group of overly mountain shoes and trousers-wearing visitors and guides. The cute yellow helmet and a big plastic badge was added to the apparel to visit the site.

After zooming down to 103m below ground with a green elevator (the only fire escape route), we got face to face with the DELPHI experiment doughnut shaped engine. Far from being industrial grey and dark, the inside of the tunnel was shining in bright basic Lego colours: yellow platforms , metallic blue rails, orange and red wires, gold plated mirrors, green motherboards and scaffolding. I could not remember why the tracker was in doughnut shape or why silicone tube was used.

We also stood at the lowest point of the tunnel, at 103 m below sea level, where apparently an opera was held as the tunnel's acoustic was so preciously fantastic. At that point, a 10 m diameter well was used to lower down the equipment.

Moving on past the data collection computer room, where a number of regular PC save the data generated by 40 000 000 collisions or so per second, we then stopped to stare at the recent and contemporary LHCb experiment. Our guide was working on this particular experiment and was particularly enthusiastic about it.

They set up to collect only a certain type of particle within a specific angle of the collision, and only one side (left side for example), with as much precision as possible. So instead of using resources for both sides of the collision, they focus their tracking resources in getting as much data as possible from one side, trying to capture as accurately as possible half the amount of particle of interest. The trackers are the flat silicon panels on rails. The blue box is a magnet that deflects the particle, so that by measuring the deflection angle they can determine the momentum of the particle, and identify the particle by its energy...

As the tour came to a close and the 11 of us boarded the green elevator again, our guide kindly explained in layman's term the origin of the search for antimatter. And in my memory, it imprinted as follows:
-the conservation law by Einstein equation E=MC2 can be seen as Energy=Mass, overlooking the celerity
-by Mass however,  at high lever of Energy, it is composed of matter and antimatter
-the characteristics of the antimatter are what motivates the whole research

In this dieting age, it is very true: spend a lot of energy to create muscle and loose mass (of antimatter?)!

A sunny London weekend

When was the last time I got so much sun, perfect temperature, and wandering about in a loved city?

We actually met up as early as 9 o'Clock at Holborn, and walked to Camden markets, with a stop for a toilet break at University Hospital. Crowd mingling and wide eyed by the displays of fun merchandise, we almost forgot our stomach.

But we found our way through the dresses, t-shirts and coats, to sit in a Mexican cafe next to the international food stalls.

Then it was more eye shopping through the stable market, and also along the Regent's canal, which made me feel very poetic that day.

The day with J ended in Regents park, watching daisies and species of ducks, recharging the mood batteries and wishing each others well.

It was my best Saturday in a long long time...but it kept me going, waiting for the next goor day.

What I learned when I learned to sail

It was tough, it was a treat, it was a totally new experience, full of unexpected discoveries.

In March, one is expected to go up to the mountains to surf the white powder in the Alps to get sunshine and a tan. But ski boots or even the more flexible snowboard boots are not kind to my body shape, and I fail to feel the fun in going up and down a slope. So this year I signed up for a sailing course, from beginner to day skipper, with a RYA training centre based in south of Portugal. There are many more training centre but my main criteria were price, weather and a cabin on my own: Learn2Sail in Albufeira was a perfect choice for me.

Albufeira beach

 Two weeks with 3 other mates and a very calm and reassuring instructor, I learned of the different basic sheets ('there are no ropes on a boat'), knots, and multiple names on the sail, the weather and the tides. I surprisingly learned the usefulness of a protractor, magnetic compass, and charting. It was very daunting at first but the days shone with a bright sun and there were so much to learn that any fear of sea sickness and major gaffe slipped away by breakfast.

I found that my cabin on board with just a double bed next to the engine, and a small cupboard, was enough to hold my 10kg belongings, and rest my head (after a day out paying full attention to what was around me and what was being taught). I slept really well with a sense of accomplishment every evening. I learned to push my physical limits, by making tea in the gallery when the boat is sailing close hauled (close to the wind), and I had to smile all the time to prevent the nausea. I held the helm for so long in a slanted position that my sides were aching at night, but I loved to see the bow crash the waves as we sailed ahead.

It was a full new experience to be fully in charge and be accountable for everyone on board, on the day I was skipper of the day. That feeling of not having nobody to lean on or rely on for any decision was frightening, but also such as thrill. As the mark the instructor said, 'there is no democracy on a boat, only a dictator'. Being used to follow or await somebody's decision, it was a time when I had to plan ahead every minute to bring the boat and the crew to safety. The course from Portimao to Lagos and back felt like an obstacle course, with marine farms, fishermen spots, surface rocks and wrecks...But once it was done, I learned to respect sailors, and mental additions and subtractions every minute (magnetic course heading vs true heading for example). I learned to evaluate and trust the crew mates.

Position charting from Portimao to Lagos, and back

But all in all, I really enjoyed the navigation, and learned to trust in me again.

Catching up last year's trips

So I've started chronicling my trips from last year in South Korea. I managed to edit the video recently.

A bit of wine tasting in Lavaux to celebrate

I had wanted to walk in Lavaux all year and finally got some time allocated for it. Originally planned as a training walk for South Korean trip, I did not manage to gather enough people to walk from St Saphorin to Lutry. Instead, A&S and K picked me up and we drove to Chexbres, a small village in Lavaux bordering St Saphorin and Dezaley. I was coming to enjoy some lovely landscape and the weather was just perfectly sunny and pleasant 20-24C to painlessly walk for hours.

It was very impressive to see so many labels of wines in some vineyards. I could not even identify some of them, since I am a novice when it comes to wines. We encountered 2-3 groups of 60 year olds, finishing a visit and a tasting, and some individual walkers as well. The path was so clear and wide and every angle gave a beautiful view: a view of plunging vineyards into the lake, and the Alps across the water; looking back there were more vineyards, small houses and blue sky adorned with fluffy little clouds. Old villages in small islands of concrete and rocks provided the odd ringing bells, and the water was echoing the shouts of the rowing club practicing a race on the lake.

One intriguing sight was that of the many roses blooming beautifully amidst the green vines. A touch of colour (red, orange, pale pink), a faint sweet fragrance in the air, and one could feel at peace. In fact, rose plants are used as early indicator of disease or infection, so they are also tended to meticulously.

As we advanced toward Vevey, which we could see early on, we mainly went downhill. Then we took a sharp right turn and ended up closer to the water, following the signs for Bacchus, a promise of wine tasting. We were getting thirsty, with all the yummy grapes we saw and could not eat. Eventually, we found Bacchus, and lamented about the other cellars that seemed to be already closed for the day, or for the lunch break. We took a seat overlooking the vineyard of the shop owner, and tasted St Saphorin and Dezaley, since we were right in between.

I really liked the St Saphorin, with it's lightness and floral after taste. Maybe I was really thirsty and it was the first wine we tasted. The Dezaley was heavier and had a metallic feel to it. We snacked on tomme cheese and saucisson, and were kicked out at 14:00 since they normally close at 13:00...

So we walked down another 300m, admiring the group taking a dive in the lake across the street, and we arrived at Vinorama, another wine tasting spot where you could taste for free, and watch a lovely video for 10min, narrating a year out of a diary of a local wine maker. This time, we tasted a dessert wine, and just the name itself was poetic enough to make anyone buy it. The dessert wines I saw were called perles d'amour, larmes du soleil, etc...

We could stay for hours gazing at the symphony of light playing on the lake, but we still had to climb back up to the car. We drank the 3 L water I was carrying around, and started to climb the steep stairs we used as shortcuts. I only paused 3 times: to take my breath after panting, then to look back at the view which just took my breath away again. I also realized I did not wear any deodorant that day, so I was trying to keep to the shades. I managed to keep up with them 3 somehow, only lagging 20m behind...My excuse was that I was carrying 3 bottles of wine I bought at Vinorama.

We made it safely tot he car, and cooled down with the wind on the way back, along the shores of the Leman. It was a satisfying day out, and I found a new place to enjoy a poetic walk, calling it fondly my not so distant backyard.

The end of summer at Mont Blanc

The high temperatures of August are becoming memories, and rain and wind are welcoming September. It is on this day that Darja and I are going to Mont Blanc. Yes, as if the landmark were an easy destination next door. I needed a bit of convincing from the other ladies to go, since I am in no shape to go climb some ice walls and walk in neck deep snow...all that in above 3000m altitude.

In fact, it turns out there is a relatively mundane access from Chamonix Mont Blanc. On today's weather, it is very cloudy and rainy, or snowy above 2000m, so we really didn't expect to claim the peak. Nevertheless I woke up at 6am again to go to the airport and wait for the shuttle she booked. After grabbing some breakfast at the arrival terminal, we had to wait for the other passengers. It was a bit strange to wait for a plane to land when you were not expecting anyone.

Instead of leaving at 8:15am, we finally drove off shortly before 10!!! In the van, someone had flown from Washington DC, some from Ohio...I was missing my bed...

We were dropped off in front of the funicular to the Aiguille du Midi at around 11am, and we checked the visibility from the webcams (none), the price and schedule, before wandering in Chamonix to get a feel of things and decide whether or not to go up there. Eventually we took our tickets and hopped on a rather full funicular.

We left the world of colour for a trip towards a thick, fluffy, silent fog, and ended up in a world where white prevails.

There are 2 funiculars to take, and on a clear day, there are many trails worth taking after the first funicular. But we were having a special day and visibility was not optimum and snow made every trail slippery. So we just aimed for the top of the funicular to get to the Aiguille du Midi, appearing in front of a shy white sun.

After taking in the effect of the altitude, and getting frozen by an mini blizzard, it was time to grab lunch. We first settled in the local cafeteria, but soon got ejected since picnic was forbidden. So we ate safran rice, bananas, dried figs, tomatoes, more rice and lots of tea in the funicular waiting room, while watching real brave climbers returning from their forays into the glacier, all dressed in red and wearing killer boots and brandishing spikes...ahem.

For digestion, we first climbed up to the souvenir shop, bought some postcard and settles on the bench outside the toilet to write our memories on the cards. A group of Japanese tourists (hum, I wasn't even surprised) assembled in front of us, after we let or seat to an old couple from Tokyo. We chatted a bit and they were impressed. I was more impressed I was getting more comfortable understanding either Japanese or Korean. It was funny how the tour guide took attendance by calling out everyone's names before setting out. I discovered that each group member had a headset, and the tour guide had a microphone and a radio to describe things instead of yelling out loud her surroundings. Of course, that also meant the members could disperse and wander about freely, to then regroup at her command. It is definitely more discreet that the usual umbrella holding or strange item holding to lead the group.

After we posted our cards, we ventured outside and took more photos of the different landmarks, enjoying the surreal presence of the fog everywhere we looked.

And because there was no visibility, we got to visit the actual construction on top of the Aiguille du Midi for free. There was first a small museum of mountaineering which was showing the different old apparels and tools used to build the funiculars into the rock,  then a short corridor carved into the rock leading to the elevator.  Once outside the elevator, more wind and snow awaited us, as well as the litle sign (unfortunately next to the rubbish bin).

After all the cold, we found a room with huge photos of the mountain chain, like giant postcards mirrorring what was outside the huge bay windows.

We could have stayed longer but it was already past 3pm and we still wanted to walk around Chamonix. So with a last look at the bright snow outside, we set out on our journey downward, across the poetic, magic fog. The trip down to town was as crowded, and we played soundtrack quiz to pass the time while being crushed to pulp in an over-packed metal box hanging from a metal cable over a growing snowy mountain.

Back at healthy breathing altitude, I was horrified to find out more runners were still trickling to the finish line of the ultra trail of Mont Blanc. Those people started running the previous night around 7pm, and were still thriving to get back to this finish line! We walked along the stream, meeting some runners on their way to the finish line, and we applauded them like every viewers. We even cheered for an unknown Japanese runner, only identified as such by the small Japan flag on his backpack. All in all they were all thin, dirty with mud, carrying 2 walking sticks, a backpack and bottle, a surely a dose of mental strength.

We just found a spot to walk on the dirt, and resume our chitchat about the different dramas we had watched.

As evening started to fall in Chamonix, we walked along the shopping street one more time, looking for a cozy coffee shop to rest and wait for our shuttle back. We found this cozy wooden shop in front of the funicular, and chatted about past lives for an hour before hopping into the van again and head back to Geneva airport. A look back provided us with a great view of the Mont Blanc and the Glacier.

A lazy trip to Jungfraujoch

Among the places to see in Switzerland, there is this place called Jungfraujoch that holds the record of being the highest train station in Europe, accessible by public transportation. I was tempted to check what all the fuss was about, and also because the weather was starting to be a little too hot down at the sea level. Switzerland has this advantage of having extensive railways all over its small territory, so for a weekend, there is always a place worth visiting without loosing phone network or 3G access.

First off, I had to get to Interlaken, the starting point of all adventure seeking in the area. It is a hub for hikers, paragliders, or families from the Bern area seeking some rest from playing in the lakes of Thun and Brienz. The train runs so close to the water one is tempted to put a hand out and touch the fresh water on a  hot day.

As I left with my backpack on Saturday, I was packed lightly, with a camel bag for water, a change of knickers, a change of t-shirt, 2 warm sweaters and a ski vest for altitude. I didn't forget a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. However, as I had to change trains in Bern, I realized I forgot a change of pants, and had to wear a pair of leggings only while taking off my hiking shorts for washing (yep, that time...) . I was lucky it was a busy, dark station and I managed to get to Interlaken without dirtying more clothes. I remembered there was a a grocery store in front of the train station, and I grabbed food and the necessary to make my stay comfortable.

After a quick cold shower at the hotel, I played it by ear by checking out the nearest attraction, which was the funicular to Harder Kulm. It was only about 10min ride, but cost 27CHF for a return ticket (I hold a 50% card so that was alright).

Climbing backward, I could see the whole Interlaken and soon the 2 lakes and the snowy mountains in the background. It was thrilling, yet uncomfortable with the heat inside the cabin. At the top though, the view of the 2 lakes, Brienz at the East and Thun on the West of Interlaken was topped byt he view of the creamy snowy mountains that was calling me.

Brienz lake

 

Interlaken

Thun lake

There was a platform hanging on emptiness in front of a cafe restaurant, and all these landscapes and the height would make me breathless. Unfortunately I forgot to get some water with me, and didn't really want to fork out more money, so I took the ride down the funicular towards Brienz lake, to try to catch a boat tour. However, the boat just left and the next one was 2h later. Instead, I explored the Interlaken Ost station and discovered the lockers area to store my things the next days. 

Then I started walking toward Interlaken West station, passing by the main road in town with the Casino, luxurious brand names, dozens of paragliding booths, and the landing green. I returned along the river that was so tempting I almost jumped in to cool down, but I didn't bring a swimming suit. I then sat down to see the paragliders land against a backdrop of blue sky and eternal snow.

After that, it was time to take an early rest. I enjoyed some NHK music program and some Arirang shows before dozing off.

When the alarm went off at 6am, panic followed disorientation, but then I quickly came to my senses, munching on cereal bars and overthinking on what to bring along, the backpack or just the camera bag. In the end, I left everything in the locker at the station, even the precious camel bag, bring only 2 warm jackets and enough money and a bottle of water. 

The train to Lauterbrunnen was empty when leaving Interlaken, but it filled up along the way. By the time we got to Kleine Scheideg, it was packed, and everyone had to change train, which was a rushed affair on the station platform. There were even trains catered specifically for groups of Asian tourists.  While people watching,  I tried to guess what they were saying, depending if they were Koreans, Japanese or Chinese. 

From Kleine Scheideg, the funicular train stopped twice to viewpoints behind thick glass, showing off the sea of glacier.

 

Then 50min from the terrace of Kleine Scheidegg station, we arrived on top, around 10am. The battle for viewpoints and discretion started there, as I was trying not to be squashed between groups. The place was very organized in a sense that all the things that can be done at that altitude were clearly signaled and labeled. It was very accessible as well, with lifts and escalators and restrooms. So one only had to follow the flow of people or the signs. It was family friendly, with snow fun park outside (zip lines, snow boards, skiing, luge) and group friendly (group restaurants, huge viewing platforms). Individual tourists like me had to just work on timing to have a picture taken without a group looming in the background. But it was feasible and I spoke to a lot of Japanese people.

 The main attraction for me was the Sphinx, the highest science research observatory in Europe. It was the scene of the main viewing platform, and also still had areas prohibited to the public, although only a weather research centre seemed to remain.

Another cute attraction was the Ice Palace, which was a gallery tunnel of carved in the ice, with sculpted ice illustrating various local elements (although I don't think they had penguins up there!)

Finally, there was an access to the outside of that crowded place, and there were even adventurous hikers climbing slowly to the top of the Eiger. personally I was interested in crossing the Aletsch glacier, but that would be another trip.

 

Altitude and fresh air digging in my stomach, I sat down for lunch at one of the 2 restaurant (one is a self service Indian restaurant) and ordered the commemorative menu. However, being inside, the lack of air started to manifest and my body suddenly was feeling suffocated and dizzy. I struggle with the soup, took off many clothes, and finally finished the 3 course lunch. I was struggling to stay conscious and went outside for air again before queueing for the train to go back.

The trip down could have been the opportunity to explore the area between stations by foot, but the amount of crowd was discouraging. I could not risk to take the later trains, knowing that more climbers would have the same idea. I was already standing in the packed train for the most part of the journey back, even through the detour of Grindelwald. In that sense, i could not explore the beautiful area and lakes around Grindelwald.

I was dripping sweat in my jacket, in a packed train, in the sun at 25C and I was out of water. The camel bag was promptly emptied. I washed off what I could in Interlaken station, and hopped in the Intercity air conditionned train back to Bern. The train was pleasantly empty, but again filled up along Spietz and Thun as people were going home from their playful weekend on the lake or in the mountains.

The area deserves a revisit, as there are so many things to do. Only 3h from Geneva by train, it is very pleasant and colourful in the summer. Until next time then..

Being friend and a godmother

I sometimes wonder if I'm not the worst friend: never calling, forgetting birthdays. My only redeeming feature is the obsession of sending my friends a postcard when I travel somewhere far and exotic. Which is the only regular correspondence I get to write these days to give some news to all my friends who are all over the places.

Of course, having friends nearby does not guarantee that we would hang out often, a J. told me in Newcastle. Everyone has their lives, their rhythm and it is difficult to meet up regularly,  Sex in the City style. So once a year I try to be a good friend and pay a visit. This time, I went to be a godmother as well, and meet my soon to be 3 year old godchild again.

He is going to pre-school in September and I racked my brain for something that could be useful but gave up with coloring book and stickers..I was looking for a blouse but all they had was plastic and vinyl blouses, which were very ugly.

I woke up at 5am on Saturday to take a 7:40 train to Aix en Provence to meet them, and M. was shy and pretending to sleep in the car until we got to the farmer's market and shopped for vegetables. S and C were as their usual calm and I really love their couple dynamic. Because the weather was scorching hot and it was high season for tourists on the beach, we waited until 18h to go to the beach and have a picnic.

 

We took the highway adin 30min we were in La Ciotat. We first headed towards the Figuerolles, which was accessible through a descent along fancy residentce and restaurant, and a view over the geological rock formation that was the local curiosity.

 

We didn't stay long and soon climbed back up to get to the other beach for the picnic. C took a dive in the 27C water, and M was playing at wetting rocks. We dined on chicken, cherry tomatoes, potato chips, grapes and melon. S was on a  day diet without fiber as she was to undergo a digestive endoscopy and other check ups, so she was on a rice and chicken and meringue diet.

We got back home satisfied and tired, took a nice hot shower and slept like a rock until Sunday 7a, when my body clock impulsively woke me up, despite the absence of any sound I could then hear M. babbling to his parents. But I stayed in bed until I felt too hot and th toilet was calling. After a breakfast on freshly baked pain au chocolat, M and I worked on collecting pine balls when his Mom were doing some real gardening. It was my bonding time with the little man, and we did play nice. We checked the swimming pool temperature, which was only 26C, so we waited till the afternoon to play in the pool.

C came back from his regular Sunday mountain bike excursion, we hung the laundry in the blazing sun, we picked (and ate) some late strawberries and tomatoes for lunch, and soon we had to send C to buy meat for the bbq. While C prepared for lunch, S and I tuned her harp that C made for her, and we tried to play some of her old pieces. I even tried to accompany her while she sung her old motets. It was the first time I played the harp, and the first time we attempted to make music together, but it felt great!

Lunch was the scene of some discipline drama for M, who was punished for not obeying. It was the first time I saw S yell and be that angry....After lunch we all had a nap...

After the nap, before M finished his, we took a dip int he pool to get refreshed before everyone would pack for Monday again. 

Sundays are great, really...and I miss them already.