Still enjoying clement weather in Shirakawa-go

I was woken up by the cluttering of cups in the next door room. My room was next to the dining room, and breakfast was ready by 7:30am...I tossed a bit more in bed before giving up to curiosity. To my stupor, there was more to eat than at the previous dinner! I did my best...though I couldn't eat all the pickles.
After lazing up in my warm room and enjoying the view from my window, I started out to walk around the village. The hostess forced me to bring one of her umbrellas as she said the weather was going to be bad. She pointed outside up the hills and they were covered in snow!
 And so I climbed up to the point of view, greeting all the old and bent people I met in the still sleepy village at 9:00
.

 

 

 

I managed to run out of battery in the middle of a photo, so had to rely on my phone for the rest of the day. The phone itself only had 20% left of battery so I was glad to go to Tokyo in the evening. Nevertheless, the village was very pleasant and started to get crowded with Japanese tourists by 10:00. I met a couple of Americans, a few Indonesians and lots of Japanese...Most foreigners I met did the Tokyo-Hakone-Kanazawa-Shirakawa-Kyoto route.

By 11:30 i was tired and ready to lunch, but Is till haven't found the relocated village. Because a dam had to be built, they saved a few houses after much pleading and relocated them into a live museum in Shirakawa-go. This museum is next to the bus stop.

 

 

 

I did my best with my poor phone and even managed to take pictures of myself on the bouncy pedestrian bridge that connects the village to the bus stop..

 

 

The ryokan I stayed overnight

Exploring Hida in Takayama

On Wednesday I leave Tokyo in the morning to go further north and inland to the remote Gifu prefecture.

 

Kyoto main train station

 

It is another 4h trip, changing in Nagoya and riding along magnificent views of a river and surrounding fall colours. I was a bit stressing out that I will miss the bus from Takayama to Shirakawa-go, because I didn't really want to arrive during the night since I have no idea how to get to the hotel. But in Takayama I found it easily next to the station. Even better, I had 1h45min to kill in Takayama and most sights were withing 20min walk.

 

So I saw the small temple and its 1200year ginkgo tree in fiery colour, the old merchants houses, and ate mini tayaki and a meat bun. Takayama is located in the Hida region, which is famous for its beef as well, some special soba noodles and hida miso soup.

 

 

And so after much walking around, I boarded the bus for Shirakawa-go, which rode through many tunnels as we got to see the Japanese Alps..

 

 

Only 50min on the highway, we arrived at Shirakawa-go, and I had barely 5min of daylight to get a first impression of this UNESCO classified World Heritage village.

 

But mot impressive of all was the unexpected dinner prepared  by the ryokan owner, with local vegetables she grows locally. I even had a taste of the hida beef...

Autumn in Arashiyama

 So I was out of the hotel at 08:35 and caught the bus to Arashiyama, west of Kyoto an home of zen temple Tenryu-ji and the bamboo grove I saw last year. This time the colours of autumn were in full force and the view magnificent.

The zen garden was so painfully romantic. I saw the bare cherry trees and can only imagine the splendor in spring.

 

By noon I was in another bus, going across town to take me back to Kyoto train station, and I could send some postcards and eat some ebi yempura donburi (shrimp tempura with rice bowl).

The I hopped on the 100 bus I used to take last year to ride through Kyumizu area on Higashiyama dori, up to the Heian shrine.

My destination was reached: Kyoto craft centre. It does feel like a toutist trap as I only came across foreign tourists. But it is a one stop shop for everuthing Kyoto, even if there are much variety in town. I acquired a maiko kimono... Since I really cannot wear those short sleeved ones that are for married women!

Breakfast of champions

Miso soup with lemon and mushroom
A sunny side up egg and a slice of salmon
Salad of greens with fried onions
Rice
Tea
Pickles
Ate it all...

Shopping in Kyoto

So i woke up pretty smoothly hearing the shuffle in the corridor, to realize it was 8:49 when my alarm was set to 8:00. Checking it out, I realized the weekend alarm was on but not the weekdays one. I still had time until checkout so I sorted out my things to be used for the next 3 days.
Taking the train was a breeze and the silent car was most welcomed to sleep in.
Arriving at Kyoto station at 12:54 I only got my suitcase sent to my hotel in Tokyo at 14:00 after all the big size lockers were found full and another luggage service only delivered in Kyoto prefecture.
After a nice hot matcha latte, I set out for the ryokan off shijo dori, the main shopping srrret equivalent to Oxford street or 5th avenue. I can boast in sleeping behind the Louis Vuitton shop!
After dropping off my small bag and unfolding a larger one,  I was ready to test my plastic money.

Nishiki market

 

Looking for facewash

 

One of the sign entrance to Teramachi, another shopping avenue

 Pickles, pickles..

In the evening, the mission was to snap pictures in Gion an grab some local food. I settled on okonomiyaki and helped some french tourists to navigate the menu. Somehow I always end up being a tourist guide.

 

Weird wishes on prayer tablets hanging in the okonomiyaki shop

On the way back, I stumbled on a street with lots of host and hostess clubs. Funnily enough the street name is kyamachi dori ( Japanese fans go kyaaaa when they scream of excitement, and machi means town)
There is also an area where there are only bars.

But I went on to Gion watch some maiko leave their work at around 21:00. I knew there were going to be a sighting because a hide of taxis were stationed waiting for their patrons to exit the different restaurants. Seriously thiugh, these ladies walk so fast you'd have to run after them to get a proper picture. Maybe tomorrow I will have the strength...

 

Looking for the Gods in Izumo-Taisha

I wok up at 03:00am this morning, completely jet lagged still. But I had set my alarm to wake up at 8 so I did my best to go back to sleep...and failed. I napped a bit around 5, but was awake again by 7, seeing the daylight outside and hearing the occupant of the next room wake up and move about her room. She was out by 7:30. They really have an early start over here.

I understood why when I got to the train station and asked to get the tickets and route to Izumo-shi. The clerk asked his colleague and the colleague spent the next 15min in a huge book. I kind of wanted to give up and do the area instead maybe, but I felt bad giving up after he desperately looked for it after 15min. Finally, he emerged and gave me more than I expected. In addition to the train name and schedule he even gave me the platform numbers of arrival and departure!!

And so off I went, very pleased at 9:15 to catch the Hikari again to Okayama...Looking at my tickets I finally realize it would take me 4h to get to Izumo-shi station! I could have left at 4am really.

From Okayama, another train took me across, from the Pacific ocean to the Sea of Japan, passing by Niimi midway, Yunago and Matsue. I arrived at 13:05 in Yazumo-shi and fromt here I had to take another bus for 20min...it was worth it though, as the shrine was not crowded and I could get a nice view of the premises. I am not sure I can get such a view in Ise shrines.

 It is also a popular place for weddings, and for throwing coins in the thatched cords to bring luck I think.

 

I bought an omikuji for 100yen, which is the cheapest souvenir ever so far, but when I asked the miko to explain if it was good or bad. She started up blabbing and I smiled and stared blankly as I even understood less of what she was saying. So I thanked her and left wondering, whether or not to hang the paper for the bad things to be gone with the wind like these:

 

Because I didn't know how to tie it down, I took it home. i will have it translated somehow. It cannot be too bad because the only thing I understood from the miko was that it is 50/50. For those wondering what a miko is, they're young women working as priestesses or helpers at the shrine.

 

Finally, it was time to return to Izumo-shi by bus, because I was getting worried there wouldn't be any trains left for Hiroshima, if it would take me another 4h to get back. Luck struck as I managed to rush into the train going to Yamaguchi,  along the western coastline, so I was guaranteed a sunset on the Sea of Japan, and would finish my loop of the day.

 

Tomorrow I m leaving the Hiroshima area and will journey northward. Today was a nice day viewing the colors of autumn in the valley of middle Honshu.

Hiroshima

Landing at Kansai International Airport at exactly 9:34am on Saturday, my luggage was searched after the customs officer asked me in Japanese and I answered that it was for 'tourism'. of course he was suspicious, or at least intrigued since I had a French passport, and spoke Japanese, and it wasn't my first entry int he country. Nevertheless he searched everywhere except in the side pocket where I had my Swiss knife and a thread and needle to mend any hemline...Well, at least we made conversation:)

I then made my way to the JR pass window and conducted a whole 'conversation' in Japanese to get the pass and the ticket to Hiroshima. I was impressed myself since I haven't spoken properly for one year and a half! But again, it mostly consited of "onegai shimasu",  "hai, hai" and finally "arigatou gozaimasu". Still I was so convincing the clerk didn't attempt even once to speak in English....:)

I realized it's only 1h30 from Shin-Osaka to Hiroshima. That means I will take my time to get to Kyoto on Monday. The express train from the airport to Shin-Osaka left with the cleaning staff cutely waving at the train as it sped off the platform to its destination. I missed a great photo, and even a great video.

I then rembered how cheerful and helpful people are in this country. It is a source of inspiration in term of services. I wish it were like this everywhere. The Hikari Shinkansen stopped at Kobe, Okayama, Fukuyama I think , before getting to Hiroshima. I still enjoy the fact that the ticket controller bows to the whole carriage to greet the customers, and bows again when finished checking everyone in the carriage. It is also thoughtful that all the seats are turned facing forward in the direction of the train, so that everyone is going forward.

In Hiroshima station information office, someone misunderstood my Japanese and gave me a map in English instead. I hadn't eaten since 8:am local time, and I was tired playing treasure hunt (deciphering the signs to find my way in town). So I climbed up in a taxi, and 10min later I was at my hotel.

Dropped my bags and was told to return for check-in at 15:00. Well I had about 1h30 to kill so I proceeded to walk along the Aioi Dori, on main street with lots of department stores (Mitsukoshi, Tokyu Hands, Tenmaya, Fukuya, etc..) and ended up feeling festive about Christmas with all the shop jingles and decorations. And then I got to the Peace Memorial Park and the Gembaku Dome (A-bomb dome):

 

The cenotaph has colorful and poignant paper crane.

 

It made me think how tragic it must have been, and how the children on their schooltrip must assimilate the event somehow. On that sad note, I decided to find the Hiroshima castle, before heading out for food before my body collapse.

When approaching the castle compounds, I realized I stumbled on a chrysanthemum flower show. It was quite amazing and I remembered it is the season. One episode of Japanology is entirely dedicated to this flower.

 

There were all sorts, even the bonsai ones that were so cute.

 

Impressed by so much craft and hard work, my body finally aknowledged its weakness and I stumbled away fromt he castle, only seeing its outer donjon.

 

I grabbed some food and feasted on 2 bentos at the hotel.  Tomorrow I will eat out. For now, I need my beauty sleep.

Trip preparations

Well, part 1 is done, which is doing a suitcase. Even if I will have to do it again, the essentials are packed: first aid, underwear, toiletries, as well as gifts. I hope I didn't forget anyone.

The next few days, the choice of clothes need to be done. My trip will take me from 18C maximum to 31C max. So I need a good collection of warm and light clothes!!! I suppose summer dresses and winter coat should do it, but my suitcase is quite small so I have to be cautious about it. Maybe I am being stupid by bringing the same suitcase as last year, given that last year I had to buy another suitcase and an extra bag to travel back...jajajajaja.

Also I will be moving quite a bit before getting to Tokyo, so I cannot afford to drag around a huge 'empty' suitcase...There are a few things I hope to bring back, and that does not include chopsticks, even if them shops are mighty appealing with their colorful and elegant chopsticks.

It is only a draft of a suitcase. On Thursday, the adrenaline will set in and I will need to put in the dry cleaning items as well, i.e. winter stuff.

Until then, it's cleaning day, and the painful money counting  -_-

Mt Pilatus

Courtyard view from the hotel, Venice

Waking up in Venice

And then they were gone...

Sadly, I stumbled on a photo that reminded me of that smiley face that I will no longer see.
Kay was a quiet strength during the tumultuous university years.  Thank you for those times, and I hope to live up to your memory...

Canteen menu

Ladies...

Rediscovering Paris

Living in Paris for 4 years seems a long time ago. Walking in the small streets around Opera seemed like discovering a foreign unknown city within your own town...I suppose I never ventured in this area before. Similarly, wandering around Gare de Lyon is about rediscovering the sights from days past, and fixing those fuzzy feelings again.

Today is shopping day. No big surprise there.

The sky is blue so far so maybe I will walk around the Marais as well, to test my credit card discipline..muahahahha

Relativity, choice, anchoring, the power of "free" and more

I finally started reading a book I bought a few weeks ago by curiosity. I cannot remember which article mentioned it, but it was probably one of those social science article.

The book is titled "predictably irrational", by Dan Ariely. It's very informative, and good fun to read. Most importantly, it makes me reflect on my decision patterns, or try to identify some patterns I have if any.

I strongly recommend this for those who have an interest in understanding some unexplicable behaviour, or just some source of cocktail party anecdotes.

A day of shopping and letting go

Of course, London is a place to make use of the money painfully earned through patience and self discipline. I forgot the white shirts though:(

My partner in crime got a crash course in crowd navigating and bargain hunting, even if it was very difficult on a crowded Saturday on Oxford Street...and also a cold lesson in ignoring strangers..but she certainly failed that one...Being too nice in the city doesn't get you anything but annoyance and disturbance.

Instead, pouring your heart and soul into producing unheard of sounds in the confines of a not-so-soundproof room is the best way to let go of all the worries and stress...and vapor of alcohol..

"the reason money is to be feared is that it can take away all you have"

Is it too late for a philosophy lecture? I guess I have never thought about it this way. And yet it is so true. When I am busy acquiring and spending money, more tendency to spend I admit, I have never understood that truth. Is that why monks prefer to live on donations? to rely on human kindness, pity?

As I try to plan for the tomorrows to come, I need money. It feels money is easier to gain. I am not good at gaining people's loyalty. Yet I know I am indebted to different friends. Or does debt void the friendship relationship? If you think about it, friends shouldn't be tied by debt. There are people whose goal is to build empires, acquire companies, accumulate vast amount of money. There are those who aim to defend their families, protect their loves ones. And everyone is in both situations really.

Am I defeated because the reality is too harsh?  NO. Because I still have the memory of the quiet silent mornings cuddled with loved one, the smiles of my dear family, and moments of discovering beautiful feelings, amazing people and ones I could call friends.

I am glad I encountered that quote. Being naive has it's benefit. But being aware is better.

Flash visit

A visit from far away home,

After watching the Barber of Seville.

Good lies

Today was a sh@@$^% day but it started almost nicely. When I entered the office, and my virtual cubicle area, I was told the sun has entered the area, referring to me...it made me smile, even if it was admitted 30sec later that it wasn't an honest comment. A perfectly good example of a useful good lie.

Until Friday evening, I have to lie to my tired brain to keep it from collapsing under stress(countdown before exam) and worry (what the h&&&$% do I wear tomorrow?), and guilt(half marathon training reduced to zero). I am using the pacifying method of "thinking of a happy place"...

I haven't met you yet - Michael Bublé

Half marathon training DAY 1

An hour cross training ended up in jogging to the lake and back, finding a colorful balloon hung above the park close to home...Oh what a beautiful feeling, oh what a beautiful day.

Am wide awake at 8am, just craving for water...

"What's in a name? that which we call a rose By any other name would smell as sweet" (W. Shakespeare)

So back in the days, an alias, or screename was already put on the debate table. So Montague could be Cruise, and Capulet be Amigdala...or Anonymous.

I cannot find the origin of the catchphrase "my name is Nobody", but I was sure it was some chapter in Homer's Iliad and Odyssey. Lately it seems, the question arose on the question of one's privacy, it's place in society, and how one's identity seems to matter, or not.

Almost everyone is registered to an online social network or two these days. The ones I know usually requires a screename or a name to be picked to identify yourself. I have never thought about the weight of a name: its origin, how it describes you, it is your trail to make you accountable, it singles you out.

I was pleased to read about 4chan on this article. Maybe I was feeling suffocated and needed reassurance that having bad thoughts is no big deal and can still be expressed somehow. Of course, being Anonymous all the time would b unpractical, but it sure is a relief every now and then. Maybe that is why I enjoy moving so often.

Today is my science/technology day

Tired of looking at the Mont Blanc from the window, my mind gravitates to my multiple email boxes, then to f46&Buuq, then to email again, to finally settle on more serious and compelling publications:
Science Magazine,  Technology Review, and the New Scientist.

It is always surprising when the unthinkable technologies used in science fiction novels of the 1980s come to reality before our own eyes. For example in Neuromancer by William Gibson (1984), online data are used to predict trends or behaviour or events, which is then used by the super evolved Artificial Intelligence Wintermute. Isn't this article on data mining and mood swing on the Internet getting closer to that?

Or what about that scene in Minority Report, when Mr Anderton (T. Cruise) enters a shop and a synthetic voice greets him with his name and offers him an array of product. That scene popped to mind with this article on location sensing indoors that would soon be used by real shops.

The Science magazine is a bit more molecular and chemistry oriented, but also has some interesting behavioral science as well.

Someone said "dare to dream" but I wonder how far? I am curious to read today's science fiction novels. All in all, those articles force to ask one's self what the impact would be on the daily life. What if you can buy a synthetically generated organ? Would you bear the spamming upon entering a shop or prefer it to save some time? Will your children be OK to have their DNA put in a database from birth or later on for X reason? How would you protect your privacy?

I love science, I love technology. And it is mainly because they bring change.
Checking  out TED is always entertaining, as the discussions often bring out differences in morals, philosophies and ideas...

With only those readings everyday, life is about finding out what is in for me...:)

Sakurambo (Ai Otsuka)

To jump into september with energy, I need to yell this song karaoke style, while taking a break from studies...

The end of Swiss summer?

Before the summer windly whiskes away and leaves me with autumn chills and melancholy, here's a quick view of where I spent most of it, if not by the pool and lake. I had a couple of visitors, and the regular white sox cat and millions of pigeons dirtying the place with their feathers and crap...lovely



All in all it was a summer worth the move...I am only hoping the tomatoes, melon and pumpkin will bear fruit to reward me with my hard labor....

Sore thumb and more

I am almost finished on page 1 of this piece (Hanabi), and realizing I will need the full 88 keys of a piano to complete the piece. I only have 64 keys on mine..yiikes!!

By the way, my heart fluttered slightly for the past 4 days. It makes me smile but makes me sad at the same time. However I am glad it is still able to beat faster on occasions: running 10min, rowing 5min, biking 5min...:)

Somebody's desktop is way too messy

Swiss 'Fete Nationale'

Today is a national day. Fireworks have been noisily fired all day, even in the residential areas. Private fireworks have been forbidden due to the recent drought. However today, it is raining.

I have confined myself to the studio, studying and fighting against all the distractions the place offer. Trepidations before an hour exam, constant doubts about its success. Am I reduced to this?