First off, I had to get to Interlaken, the starting point of all adventure seeking in the area. It is a hub for hikers, paragliders, or families from the Bern area seeking some rest from playing in the lakes of Thun and Brienz. The train runs so close to the water one is tempted to put a hand out and touch the fresh water on a hot day.
As I left with my backpack on Saturday, I was packed lightly, with a camel bag for water, a change of knickers, a change of t-shirt, 2 warm sweaters and a ski vest for altitude. I didn't forget a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. However, as I had to change trains in Bern, I realized I forgot a change of pants, and had to wear a pair of leggings only while taking off my hiking shorts for washing (yep, that time...) . I was lucky it was a busy, dark station and I managed to get to Interlaken without dirtying more clothes. I remembered there was a a grocery store in front of the train station, and I grabbed food and the necessary to make my stay comfortable.
After a quick cold shower at the hotel, I played it by ear by checking out the nearest attraction, which was the funicular to Harder Kulm. It was only about 10min ride, but cost 27CHF for a return ticket (I hold a 50% card so that was alright).
Brienz lake
Interlaken
Thun lake
There was a platform hanging on emptiness in front of a cafe restaurant, and all these landscapes and the height would make me breathless. Unfortunately I forgot to get some water with me, and didn't really want to fork out more money, so I took the ride down the funicular towards Brienz lake, to try to catch a boat tour. However, the boat just left and the next one was 2h later. Instead, I explored the Interlaken Ost station and discovered the lockers area to store my things the next days.
Then I started walking toward Interlaken West station, passing by the main road in town with the Casino, luxurious brand names, dozens of paragliding booths, and the landing green. I returned along the river that was so tempting I almost jumped in to cool down, but I didn't bring a swimming suit. I then sat down to see the paragliders land against a backdrop of blue sky and eternal snow.
After that, it was time to take an early rest. I enjoyed some NHK music program and some Arirang shows before dozing off.
When the alarm went off at 6am, panic followed disorientation, but then I quickly came to my senses, munching on cereal bars and overthinking on what to bring along, the backpack or just the camera bag. In the end, I left everything in the locker at the station, even the precious camel bag, bring only 2 warm jackets and enough money and a bottle of water.
The train to Lauterbrunnen was empty when leaving Interlaken, but it filled up along the way. By the time we got to Kleine Scheideg, it was packed, and everyone had to change train, which was a rushed affair on the station platform. There were even trains catered specifically for groups of Asian tourists. While people watching, I tried to guess what they were saying, depending if they were Koreans, Japanese or Chinese.
From Kleine Scheideg, the funicular train stopped twice to viewpoints behind thick glass, showing off the sea of glacier.
Then 50min from the terrace of Kleine Scheidegg station, we arrived on top, around 10am. The battle for viewpoints and discretion started there, as I was trying not to be squashed between groups. The place was very organized in a sense that all the things that can be done at that altitude were clearly signaled and labeled. It was very accessible as well, with lifts and escalators and restrooms. So one only had to follow the flow of people or the signs. It was family friendly, with snow fun park outside (zip lines, snow boards, skiing, luge) and group friendly (group restaurants, huge viewing platforms). Individual tourists like me had to just work on timing to have a picture taken without a group looming in the background. But it was feasible and I spoke to a lot of Japanese people.
The main attraction for me was the Sphinx, the highest science research observatory in Europe. It was the scene of the main viewing platform, and also still had areas prohibited to the public, although only a weather research centre seemed to remain.
Another cute attraction was the Ice Palace, which was a gallery tunnel of carved in the ice, with sculpted ice illustrating various local elements (although I don't think they had penguins up there!)
Finally, there was an access to the outside of that crowded place, and there were even adventurous hikers climbing slowly to the top of the Eiger. personally I was interested in crossing the Aletsch glacier, but that would be another trip.
The trip down could have been the opportunity to explore the area between stations by foot, but the amount of crowd was discouraging. I could not risk to take the later trains, knowing that more climbers would have the same idea. I was already standing in the packed train for the most part of the journey back, even through the detour of Grindelwald. In that sense, i could not explore the beautiful area and lakes around Grindelwald.
I was dripping sweat in my jacket, in a packed train, in the sun at 25C and I was out of water. The camel bag was promptly emptied. I washed off what I could in Interlaken station, and hopped in the Intercity air conditionned train back to Bern. The train was pleasantly empty, but again filled up along Spietz and Thun as people were going home from their playful weekend on the lake or in the mountains.
The area deserves a revisit, as there are so many things to do. Only 3h from Geneva by train, it is very pleasant and colourful in the summer. Until next time then..
