Saturday, September 01, 2012

The end of summer at Mont Blanc

The high temperatures of August are becoming memories, and rain and wind are welcoming September. It is on this day that Darja and I are going to Mont Blanc. Yes, as if the landmark were an easy destination next door. I needed a bit of convincing from the other ladies to go, since I am in no shape to go climb some ice walls and walk in neck deep snow...all that in above 3000m altitude.

In fact, it turns out there is a relatively mundane access from Chamonix Mont Blanc. On today's weather, it is very cloudy and rainy, or snowy above 2000m, so we really didn't expect to claim the peak. Nevertheless I woke up at 6am again to go to the airport and wait for the shuttle she booked. After grabbing some breakfast at the arrival terminal, we had to wait for the other passengers. It was a bit strange to wait for a plane to land when you were not expecting anyone.

Instead of leaving at 8:15am, we finally drove off shortly before 10!!! In the van, someone had flown from Washington DC, some from Ohio...I was missing my bed...


We were dropped off in front of the funicular to the Aiguille du Midi at around 11am, and we checked the visibility from the webcams (none), the price and schedule, before wandering in Chamonix to get a feel of things and decide whether or not to go up there. Eventually we took our tickets and hopped on a rather full funicular.

We left the world of colour for a trip towards a thick, fluffy, silent fog, and ended up in a world where white prevails.


There are 2 funiculars to take, and on a clear day, there are many trails worth taking after the first funicular. But we were having a special day and visibility was not optimum and snow made every trail slippery. So we just aimed for the top of the funicular to get to the Aiguille du Midi, appearing in front of a shy white sun.

After taking in the effect of the altitude, and getting frozen by an mini blizzard, it was time to grab lunch. We first settled in the local cafeteria, but soon got ejected since picnic was forbidden. So we ate safran rice, bananas, dried figs, tomatoes, more rice and lots of tea in the funicular waiting room, while watching real brave climbers returning from their forays into the glacier, all dressed in red and wearing killer boots and brandishing spikes...ahem.

For digestion, we first climbed up to the souvenir shop, bought some postcard and settles on the bench outside the toilet to write our memories on the cards. A group of Japanese tourists (hum, I wasn't even surprised) assembled in front of us, after we let or seat to an old couple from Tokyo. We chatted a bit and they were impressed. I was more impressed I was getting more comfortable understanding either Japanese or Korean. It was funny how the tour guide took attendance by calling out everyone's names before setting out. I discovered that each group member had a headset, and the tour guide had a microphone and a radio to describe things instead of yelling out loud her surroundings. Of course, that also meant the members could disperse and wander about freely, to then regroup at her command. It is definitely more discreet that the usual umbrella holding or strange item holding to lead the group.

After we posted our cards, we ventured outside and took more photos of the different landmarks, enjoying the surreal presence of the fog everywhere we looked.


And because there was no visibility, we got to visit the actual construction on top of the Aiguille du Midi for free. There was first a small museum of mountaineering which was showing the different old apparels and tools used to build the funiculars into the rock,  then a short corridor carved into the rock leading to the elevator.  Once outside the elevator, more wind and snow awaited us, as well as the litle sign (unfortunately next to the rubbish bin).


After all the cold, we found a room with huge photos of the mountain chain, like giant postcards mirrorring what was outside the huge bay windows.

We could have stayed longer but it was already past 3pm and we still wanted to walk around Chamonix. So with a last look at the bright snow outside, we set out on our journey downward, across the poetic, magic fog. The trip down to town was as crowded, and we played soundtrack quiz to pass the time while being crushed to pulp in an over-packed metal box hanging from a metal cable over a growing snowy mountain.

Back at healthy breathing altitude, I was horrified to find out more runners were still trickling to the finish line of the ultra trail of Mont Blanc. Those people started running the previous night around 7pm, and were still thriving to get back to this finish line! We walked along the stream, meeting some runners on their way to the finish line, and we applauded them like every viewers. We even cheered for an unknown Japanese runner, only identified as such by the small Japan flag on his backpack. All in all they were all thin, dirty with mud, carrying 2 walking sticks, a backpack and bottle, a surely a dose of mental strength.

We just found a spot to walk on the dirt, and resume our chitchat about the different dramas we had watched.

As evening started to fall in Chamonix, we walked along the shopping street one more time, looking for a cozy coffee shop to rest and wait for our shuttle back. We found this cozy wooden shop in front of the funicular, and chatted about past lives for an hour before hopping into the van again and head back to Geneva airport. A look back provided us with a great view of the Mont Blanc and the Glacier.

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